Pattern testing : Carme blouse by Pauline Alice


Pattern: Carme blouse by Pauline Alice.
Size: size 38 at the shouldersand bust, and 42 at the hips.
Alterations: none.
Fabric: cotton shirting, purchased locally.

This post comes a little late as this pattern was released last week, but maybe you haven't seen the latest offering by Paulice Alice just yet, or you want to read some opinions about it, so here it is!

I was asked by the lovely Pauline to test this pattern before its release, and it was quite a lovely process. One reason why I like to be a tester, it's to sometimes try a style that I wouldn't immediately pick for myself, and the Carme blouse is an example of this.
I've never been a huge fan of mao collars on myself, for some reason, and I don't wear a lot of loose-fitting blouses; Carme didn't rock my world on both these things, yet it was fun to sew something a little different (and I'm quite happy with the result). Two things I really like about this blouse are the vertical tucks (easier to construct than I expected) and the roll-up sleeves.

I chose my size based on the finished measurements rather than my own, so I basically went down a size for less loose fit. I didn't make a muslin a I ended up with the two fit issues I (almost) always get: the bust dart is too high for me and I should have done a small FBA. As I said, these are standard alterations for me; the rest was spot on.

The instructions for this pattern are very detailed and full of illustrations; the test version had a few faults, and Pauline worked really hard on them and did a great job. By the way, they come in English, French and Spanish. The only thing I would probably change in the instructions is suggesting to French-seam the sleeve seam, so that it looks neater when they're rolled up.
And one last piece of advice: if you're going to try this pattern, choose a fabric that's easy to mark! You'll thank me, I promise.

In these photos, I'm wearing my blouse with a pair of (unblogged) Chataigne shorts, but I've also tried it with jeans and tucked in a skirt, both with the sleeves down and rolled up, and it always looked great, I must say it's an extremely versatile garment!

I can't wait to see what Pauline is going to offer to us next!




Modello: Blusa Carme di Pauline Alice.
Taglia: taglia 38 per spalle e petto, 42 per i fianchi.
Modifiche: nessuna
Tessuto: cotone per camicie, comprato in un negozio locale.

Questo post è un po' in ritardo visto che questo modello è uscito la settimana scorsa, ma magari non lo conoscete ancora, oppure volete leggere qualche opinione a riguardo, perciò eccomi qui!

La carinissima Pauline mi ha chiesto di fare da tester per il suo ultimo modello prima della pubblicazione, ed è stato un processo molto divertente.
Uno dei motivi per cui mi piace fare la tester, è che a volte mi capita di provare dei design che non sceglierei immediatamente per me, e Carme ne è un esempio. Non mi sono mai piaciuti i colletti alla coreana su di me e non porto molti top "loose", e Carme non mi ha fatto cambiare idea, ma è stato comunque divertente cucire qualcosa di un po' diverso (e il risultato finale non mi spiace affatto). Due dettagli di questa blusa che mi sono piaciuti molto sono le pieghine verticali (più semplici e veloci da cucire di quanto temessi) e le maniche "arrotolabili".

Ho scelto la mia taglia basandomi sulle misure del capo finito e non sulle mie effettive, perciò ho praticamente scelto una taglia più piccola della mia per un effetto meno "loose". Non ho cucito una prova e mi sono ritrovata con i due difetti che ottengo (quasi) sempre: la pince è troppo bassa e avrei dovuto fare una piccola FBA, perchè mi tira un po' sul seno. Come ho detto, si tratta di due modifiche standard per me; il resto cadeva perfettamente.

Le istruzioni di questo modello (in inglese, francese e spagnolo) sono dettagliate e piene di illustrazioni. La versione di test aveva qualche mancanza, e Pauline ha davvero fatto un ottimo lavoro per implementarle e migliorarle. L'unica cosa che aggiungerei, è di cucire le maniche all'inglese, in modo da avere una rifinitura migliore quando le si arrotolano. E un piccolo consiglio: scegliete una stoffa semplice da marcare! Mi ringrazierete per questo, promesso.

In queste foto, indosso la blusa con un paio di short Chataigne (mai bloggati), ma l'ho anche messa con dei jeans e infilata in una gonna a vita alta, sia con le maniche giù che arrotolate, e funziona sempre benissimo, confermandosi un capo molto versatile.

Non vedo l'ora di vedere quale sarà il prossimo modello di Pauline! 

A super girly Airelle dress

Size: size 38
Alterations: turned the collar into a Peter Pan shape; omitted the darts, added the skirt panels of the Sureau dress.
Fabric: black cotton poplin form my stash; bow-printed chiffon from Wholeport.

*This post contains affiliate links*
It's a rainy, gloomy week and I don't feel like blogging, but I've been quite productive lately and I'd hate to have project photos pile up just because I'm lazy.

So here's one of my latest makes, a variation of Deer and Doe's Airelle blouse. I love this pattern to pieces, but my first two attempts (1 and 2) weren't very successful. My main mistake was fabric choice, both were too stiff for this garment. And because I also wear dresses much more than separates, I decided that for my next attempt I would make it into a dress.

I received this fabric as part of the blogger sponsorship program at Wholeport and I thought it would be perfect for a dreamy, super feminine version of Airelle. This chiffon wasn't exactly easy to work with, but it does look incredibly cute.

One of my favorite things of this pattern is how well the collar is drafted, it perfectly lays on the shoulders.
One piece of advice, though: don't skip the facing! I hate facings and I replace them with bias tape every time I can, but in this case, the bias tape will really complicate your life and it will be very difficult to make the neckline look neat on the inside.

And that's it! To be honest, this is not my favorite dress ever, but I do like it nonetheless and it fits quite seamlessy into my wardrobe.
What would you have made with this chiffon?

Taglia: taglia 38
Modifiche: transformato il colletto in Peter Pan; omesso le pince; aggiunto la gonna dell'abito Sureau.
Tessuto: popeline nero dalla mia collezione; chiffon con stampa a fiocchi di Wholeport.

*Questo post contiene link di affiliazione*
Che brutto tempo, questa settimana! Piovoso e malinconico, mi ha tolto qualsiasi voglia di scrivere! Ma visto che sono stata piuttosto produttiva ultimamente, mi spiacerebbe lasciare accumulare le foto dei miei ultimi progetti solo perché sono pigra, perciò ecco una delle mie ultime fatiche: una variate della blusa Airelle di Deer and Doe.

Amo moltissimo questo modello, ma i miei primi due tentativi (1 e 2) non sono stati di successo. Per entrambi ho usato della stoffa troppo rigida, che li rendeva scomodi; inoltre, indosso molti più abiti che separati, perciò sapevo che il mio tentativo seguente avrebbe dovuto essere una trasformazione in abito.

Ho ricevuto questa stoffa come parte del programma di sponsorship di Wholeport e ho pensato subito che sarebbe stata perfetta per una versione ariosa e super femminile di Airelle. Questo chiffon non è molto semplice da tagliare e da cucire, ma è veramente carinissimo.

Una delle mie cose preferite di questo modello è il colletto, che cade perfettamente sulla curva del collo.
Un consiglio, però: usate la paramentura! Io odio le paramenture e le sostituisco appena posso con lo sbieco, ma in questo caso vi complichereste la vita e non avreste un interno ben rifinito.

Ed è tutto! A essere sinceri, non è il mio abito preferito di sempre, ma mi piace comunque ed è una buona aggiunta al mio guardaroba.
Voi che cosa avreste fatto con questo chiffon?

Liberty Mae blouse


Size: size 10 for shoulders and bust, graded to a size 12 at the waist.
Alterations: none!
Fabric: Liberty Tana Lawn in "Emilia's flowers (C)", purchased locally (at a fraction of the cost, thankfully)


I had mentioned this blouse in passing in my last post, when I actually asked you guys to give me a hand with a competition, an you made me win the second prize!
Thank you so much, everyone, you are the best! Now I have a sweet voucher to spend at A Fashionable Stitch.

Now, let's talk about this blouse.
It was made using the Mae pattern by Bluegingerdoll. This pattern attracted me immediately for the scalloped neckline, it's such a beautiful feature that I had to try it.

The whole thing came together relatively quickly. You definitely need to take your time with the scallops and the buttoned back can be a little time consuming, but that's it, the rest of the construction is really easy.
Mae is marked as a beginner pattern, but I wouldn't recommend to a complete beginner, you need a little bit of experience under your belt to make it.
I only glanced at the instructions, but they're well written and have helpful illustration. Furthermore, Abby had a Mae sew-along on her blog, where you can find more tips on constructing your blouse.

Worn with my black Kelly skirt
I really like this blouse. I've tried it both tucked in a skirt and untucked, with jeans, and I definitely prefer this second option. It's just a little uncomfortable for me when it's tucked in a skirt, because I find myself wanting to yank it down every time I move my arms. I think this is mainly caused by the fabric: Liberty tana lawn feels AMAZING against your skin, but I definitely prefer fabrics with more drape for blouses, especially those you will want to tuck in.
Paired with jeans, it makes a very cute, comfortable outfit and because it's very fitted, I also find it quite flattering.

Bluegingerdoll patterns are rather pricey, but they're printed on sturdy paper, the packaging is extremely cute (and functional) and they offer free shipping, which is great.
So far, I've been very happy with Abby's patterns (see my Billie Jean dress here). They just released a new pattern, the Peggy skirt, which you can check out here.

Gertie's Sailor's blouse


Pattern: this is a variation on Gertie's Portrait Blouse (also found in Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing) which I learnt in a Creativebug workshop.

Size: size 4 with alterations.

Alterations: a 2,5cm FBA, 7,5cm of added length.

Fabric: I used a lovely lightweight cotton I found at my local market. It was perfect for this project! I suspect it might even be Liberty, but I'm just guessing.


What I liked: I love, love, love this blouse! I have wanted a sailor collar blouse forever and this is just perfect for me. I found out about Gertie's courses at Creativebug a while ago, and I took advantage of an offer in May to subscribe and take as many workshops as I could. The Sailor's Collar blouse was the one that I enjoyed the most, so I thought to share my thoughts on it.

This isn't the first class taught by Gertie that I followed: I took her Bombshell dress class and her Starlet Suit class (apparently, not available anymore?) on Craftsy and I loved them both to death, so I knew this wasn't going to disappoint me. Boy, I was right.
I will post a more detailed review of the workshop next week, though, so this post is not too long.

I will mention the construction of this blouse more in detail in that post, but if you're familiar with the Portrait blouse pattern, this is a simple variation to the neckline with the addition of a collar. The base pattern is a fairly simple one which has already been reviewed many times on the blogosphere, but if you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

I've already worn this blouse quite a few times and I definitely prefer it tucked in a skirt (worn here with my denim Kelly skirt), but it also works nicely with pants. It's definitely a versatile piece.

As usual, I wanted to include a couple more detailed shots of the garment. Here you can see some of the features of the blouse: it has a lapped side zipper (which I was afraid could be uncomfortable but it's really not), waist tucks, and hand-sewn bias tape to finish the neckline (I didn't enjoy hand-sewing the bias tape at all).

What I didn't like: The only thing I don't like about this project is that I could have worked a bit harder on the fit. You can see there's some excess fabric between the armholes and the bust, but after sewing three muslins I decided I would make this work.
Truth to be told, I fitted the muslin wearing another bra, which is more of a push-up than the one I was wearing in these photos, and it looks much better. Undergarments really can make such a huge difference!

But anyway, I'm very pleased with this one, as you might have guessed. Yay for a new friend in my wardrobe!

I'm currently enjoying some time at the seaside, so have a great weekend and see you next week!

*Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. This means that if you purchase this workshop or subscribe to Creativebug I will earn a small commission (but you won't spend any extra).*

Chambray and Stripes Mariposa tee

Pattern: Mariposa Tee by Sew Liberated. I purchased mine from Backstitch.

Size: size 8/10 from top to bottom

Alterations: None! Although next time, I'll raise the armhole by about 1,5cm.

Fabric: locally purchased striped jersey and chambray leftover from my Bleuet dress.

What I liked: I've had this pattern for almost 2 years (!!!) but I was always very intimidated by it, because of my irrational fear of knits (which I'm slowly conquering). I also never seemed to find some decent jersey in my fabric shopping adventures, but when I saw this striped one I knew it was perfect for this project.
I couldn't be happier with the color and texture combo of this t-shirt: chambray + black and white fit seamlessly in my wardrobe.
The fit was very good on me, especially considering this is straight out the envelope (I didn't make a muslin). I love how drapey and effortless it looks: the gathered sleeves and the gathers at the center front and back create a beautiful effect.

Another big plus of this project is that it requires very little fabric, so it's a great scrap-buster. Because the t-shirt is so blousey, I think you could also get away with using a woven fabric for the main bodice, as long as it's very lightweight and drapey (for example, a voile).

What I did not like: Now, the not-so-great part... The construction of this t-shirt was a pain in the butt, to put it mildly. I thought it was a one-afternoon project, and it turned out to be more of a two-days-with-lots-of-swearing one.
All those nice yoke pieces were the death of me. They have a 1/4" seam allowance and the instructions have you cut a cardboard template without the seam allowance so that you can press the fabric over them (does that make sense? I hope so). This process alone took FOREVER, so next time I'm going to thread mark the seam allowances, clip them and sew them without pressing them. I think this will speed things up by a lot and it will avoid accidents when clipping the seam allowance (see the curve at the center of neckline, looking like crap).

Another thing I hated with all my heart were the sleeves. You have two sleeve pieces that you are supposed to join using steam-a-seam tape on the edge and then topstitch. WHY? Why breaking up the beautiful drape of these sleeves? I didn't take the time to read the instructions carefully before cutting and after sewing my messy sleeves I just wanted to get it over with this t-shirt, so I didn't recut them. Next time, I'll definitely redraft them as one piece.
The armhole is also quite low (you can spy a bit of my bra from the side), so I'm going to raise it by 1,5cm for my next version.

Finally, I should also mention that the pattern sheets are kinda crappy. They're made of flimsy paper and there are almost no markings to help you find and follow the lines corresponding to your size. All the lines are plain and there are no little numbers at the corners to help you out, so the tracing process can be quite frustrating. 


All in all, construction and pattern sheets aside, I'm in love with this t-shirt. I've been wearing it with the black capris you see in this photo or with jeans. I have yet to try it with a high-waisted skirt, but I don't think it would be the best look for it.
I definitely plan to make more with a few improvements, as soon as I find some more cute jersey.